Bodysurfing to Surfing

One of the purest pleasures for me is to feel the swell of an ocean wave surging under me, lifting me to her bosom, then sending me, giddy as a child, hurtling headlong to shore. I make a clean somersault, fins flipping through the air, darting back out to await the next swell.

Now, at 54, I am finally taking surfing lessons, and I can't get enough. Just another (long-awaited) way of refurbishing my soul in the life force of the ocean. There is a syncopation of heart beating to the rhythm of waves, the swish and swirl of earth's dance through space. Driving, delighting, divining as one with the all powerful.